History in the park

Upon reaching the end of Tivoli Park on a walk today I came upon an unusual sight. An Italian early WWII army bunker being plastered in front of the Museum of Contemporary History. I’d known and seen several other bunkers and bomb shelters in and around other Slavic cities so this was nothing new but that fact that someone was doing something with it drew my attention and curiosity, so I had to ask someone what was going on. I then learned that it was a replica (however a slightly narrower version) being created for the upcoming exhibition on not only bunkers, but an important part of history and particularly Ljubljana city during a time period now referred to as ‘the ring of wire’.

The “workman” I talked to ended up being Aleksander Jankovič Potočnik, an expert on the subject and author of the forthcoming book that will be presented during the exhibition this coming Tuesday (September 12th). He then graciously loaned me his print-proof copy of the book (The Ring of Wire, being published by the Ad Pirum Institute). For the next 45 minutes sitting on a park bench I found myself lost in a vivid history lesson. From the history of fortified structures, (something I’m personally very interested in, like castles and watch towers) to the harrowing political events that unfolded during the early 40’s and the Italian’s occupation and suppression of the national socialists uprising that lead to a virtual lockdown of the city and it’s people. I’ve read much about WWII and even been to the WWII museum in New Orleans (D-day, Normandy, etc.) and various museums and memorials at the river Kwai in Thailand (Allies v Japan) but this little piece of history of WWII is an important part of the puzzle in this area and not any less significant. Aleksander and his team are diligently building (and quite literally with this project) under the supervision of Mr. Anton Marn, the lead architect and the director of the Ad Pirum Institute to ensure that the city of Ljubljana does not forget the experiences and hardships of those times.

George Bernard Shaw once said, “We learn from history that we learn nothing from History”. Let not that be said of this painful time. But one does not have to look far to see that we have learned little from history as an international community when looking at the Israeli wall and Guantanimo bay. Just a few modern examples of where stronger nations still use suppressive means on other peoples and cultures to serve a political agenda. History books will one day show that momentary political objectives never win when measured against the cost of human suffering. If there is anything that countries in this region can gain form the West’s mistakes is that they should learn from their past. In all the rush for modernization and better things one should not be too busy to glance back at times, as painful as it might be, to where one came from and what sacrifices were made by others (regardless of their political motive) for them to be where they are today. These are really the things that prove a nation and a people’s character. Slovenia is well on that path and this exhibition will insure that we do not forget it.

I for one will not forget my little walk today and all that I’ve learned about this and the hundreds of questions, some of which I had not even begun to formulate in my mind yet, that I had answered by this chance history class and a little borrowed book.

In the coming days and weeks that I will be here in Ljubljana I hope to learn more and maybe even visit some of these locations following the path that once made up the ring of wire. Thankfully they have been preserved over the years and political changes to serve as guideposts for forthcoming generations and interested travelers alike. In my effort to cover contemporary changes in the region I’m realizing that there is more I need to learn from the past and no better place have I seen that being preserved and articulated then here in Ljubljana.

To learn more about this bunker project and architect A.J. Potočnik’s work visit this link.