East Adriatic Photo Tour 2009

I am currently working on securing partners for the first ever photo tour that will take me all along the XYZone coast including Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Montenegro. Times and detail will be posted later but I want to do it before the winter and landscapes are barren but after the tourists are away. I was on Island Rab and Labin earlier this year and there were to many tourists that a nature landscape shot is not possible as there are people and boats everywhere. September would be ideal climate-wise and get the dramatic skies and colors needed for this project.

This is tentatively the route going south from Koper (Slovenia) to Ulcinj (Montenegro) and coming back a similar way to get different times of day at the same locations where needed. viamichelin estimates this trip as 16 hours full driving each way but i want break it down to 7-10 days round trip to maxims the time in locations, dawns, sunsets and high noons that will provide something special and lasting imagery of some of the most pristine coastline in the world.

Those interested in sponsoring part of the expenses, accommodation, fuel etc we can work out some advertisement agreement. for those interested in meeting up for photo walks etc, are also encouraged to leave a comment below and we can meet up if our calenders agree.

Rab Rocks!

Now either way you want to interpret that title you’d be correct, it is both rocky in landscape and as a meaning for this place. Otok Rab, like it’s neighboring island Krk it has both it’s vast rocky slopes and forested areas as well as a small salt water wetland I tried unsuccessfully to shoot some wildlife birds in.

many of the roads take you through much of the different parts of the natural wonders from the ferry boat at …. to the town of Rab or farther to Lopar however you will not fully see much of this island’s gems unless you really get on a bike, quad or some walking boats and explore the trails and sheep trails that cover the island.

I took part of one day to go as far as i could by car to Dumići and then by foot along the shore viewing the islands of Šailovac, Sredjak and Maman and the unique rock strata complete with wall information plaques. it is not easy walk as there is not conventional path but if you are determand and courtus to walk past what apears to be private porches with people and kids playing and get by a couple who were fully enjozing the rights one has when zoućve stacked a few rocks ontop of eachother – FKK.

The clear water, red earth and rocks provide a stunning veiw

One of the islands and boats

One of the manz rewading shots that come off the beaten trail.

and another

Some of the rocks

The salt wetlands

I then reunited with my transport and headed to Lopar, mostlz consisting of a camping and private appartments this town is pristenly situated on a peninsula, i stayed around the turist spots and took these pictures.

Some of the little islands and bits of rock on this part of the island look like broken cake. The moutain in the background is part of the Velebit national park on the mainland.

The old walls in the town of Rab by night

one of the old streets

A courtyard art gallery in Rab oldtown

Well all was not complete on my visit without taking a quad trip up some of the trails and hinterland. I went with some friends and took the small trek, we really should have taken the longer one and gone up to the hilltop legendary Ćkaminak restaurant, we will next time. we made our way through a small hamlet and on to gravel paths to vast open plains and wilderness. while two of my companions were driving off one other friend mentioned how perfectly quite it was up there, nothing to hear just vast nature to glance at. Our time to return the quads came way too fast and we had to leave this natural sanctuary for the ruckus “real world”, at least long enough to post this blog.

the open plain and sheep fold in the background

Home on the range

This blogger with camera aboard preparing to tear up the dunes and earth behind, did not take enough pics of this part of the trip as we were having to much fun driving around on a time limit. Next time we are getting all day, surly worth it and a great way to see more of the island then by conventional roads and get the photos and experiances other turists don’t ever see.

One bright idea – BULB magazine

Arguably one of the brightest contributions since Tesla, turning the photo magazine world to a slower sensible speed, just enough to look and enjoy the things that make our world what we run outside to photograph in the first place,  we lose that joy somewhere along the way in the rush to download from our cameras and up to the internet to one of the many online clubs and forums before the other guy does. While PDF magazines are nothing new this teams collection, diversity and quality is quite astounding.

Over the years I have seen the quality and dedication of other Croatia photographers and fellow members on Deviant Art, but this is really taking it farther and providing a platform that DA does not for local and international talent.

Not only am I euphoric for this as a Croatian brainchild and free service from a photographic standpoint to the worldwide photographic print community, but in being a member of other photo clubs and magazines online and the recent closer of JPG magazine in New York that I had an account with that could not get financing in these hard times makes this project starting it’s second years a great accomplishment. I also see it as wonderful proof of what I’ve been saying these last ten years I’ve loved and lived in this country. Croatia’s national treasure is its people! Those that want to get out of the box of the narrow confines of yesteryears and create dreams into reality can make them just as much or maybe better then western counterparts, ideas translated into actions are the green renewable energy of the future, they run this world already and now we are getting the light BULB turned on here as well with this new example of this team’s dedication and initiative.
I have only read one magazine (#9) as of writing this but have downloaded all the other PDFs and will give them a great looking at as soon as I can, and probably more then once. See, download, participate, BULB today!

Veprinac Views

This little hilltop hamlet situated 500 meters above sea level overlooks the Kvarner bay as a neat little gem. Unlike the much larger and populated town of Kastav this is almost bare and deserted other then a few touristic looking signs and shops around the St. Mark church and the rest of the town quaint old houses of locals who still live in the village. I could see it being much more of a tourist spot then it currently is and old stone buildings laying in ruin just waiting to be renovated into a agro-tourist (home cooking) style restaurant one day.

A  view from the road

St. Mark church at the top of the hill.

One of the local houses made out of rocks to match the look of the old walls.

View of the bay and Rijeka city from the church of St. Mark courtyard.

Grobnik – Battlefield Earth

This hinterland of the Kvarner is the highlands of Rijeka. This foreboding and captivating area is the birthplace of warriors. I have friends who have served in the Croatian war of Independence (91-95) and said the bravest and ruthless fighters were from this area. Their ancestors are said to have fought and won both the Mongols in 1242 and Turks. the hilltop tow of Grobnik provides and perfect sanctuary and height advantage to the battle planes below and Platak mountain range keeping enemy from a fast retreat on the other side. Here are some pics I took on a recent visit to the top of Grad (town) Grobnik.

The castle tower and view of the valley once battle field earth that is now populated with towns of Cavle and Drazice.

Where the Winds Take Me – eBook

Since this is a longer article and many pics I have made it into a Adobe (TM) book. This is just a sample copy, if you would like to reprint or reproduce any text or images in this book just leave a comment and I will contact you.

Enjoy!

wind-small (click to download PDF)

Tangled Webs of Pretraži and Išči po

I got to say that the web really has not hit this part of the world yet, at least not much more then in theory. If you live around here you know what I mean, like getting a visit card from someone with a @vip.hr at the end of their name. similarly you go to a website and it is just a stagnant page or just one provided by T-com and amounts to nothing but a place to post their address and phone number.

Web searching is where it gets nerve wrecking! I’ve been at it for hours and finding virtually nothing important. Slovenia is notably net savvy, yet still very few things are posted other then Tourist or government news sites in English, Croatia is all just tourism.

The problem is twofold, firstly, people here use the net to email, Google movie trailers and hang out in chatrooms or online gaming rather then as an instant library that I and many others use the web for. Secondly there is a giant language gap when it comes to academic material and since those that can read the local languages know where to find it  in dusty libraries don’t bother to put it on the web and those that can’t read it never get a chance as no one uploads or translates it. A humongous intellectual link is missing and then we wonder why no one knows more about this area? They simply can’t find it and give up and study Roman or Austrian events that are well documented in many languages. That was one of the main reasons I wanted to start this blog and post pictures of this region, to provide a view other then just tourist shots, I have not had much time either, so the tangle continues.

It will be another generation at least, the older generation don’t care and the young are still to busy playing online games, perhaps one day…

ROG state

I ran into an odd thing, off my planed walk-around, in that I had never investigated the monstrous ROG factory building that looks like a jail on the river side and a hardcore soviet type factory on the other. I took some pictures from the outside but my curiosity was too much, I wanted some facts and a closer look, there was a guard so I figured the worst thing he’d do was say no. I asked in English, “do you speak English”, a simple “yes” was all I got, my next question was “can I look around?” got a yes again, he clearly could not be bothered, it looked abandoned yet there was a guard. As abandoned as this thing was I figure they post a guard just to keep unwanted vandals out, yet he did not look very imposing or like he would do much to stop anyone.

What I found was a giant carcass of a thing that once was one of the largest bicycle producing factories in eastern Europe, perhaps Europe yet it just belly flopped it’s way to none existence more then ten years ago, though the damage and abuse makes it look much longer then that. It is home to a few small “offices”, and had a few cars in there but most looked like a few abstract artists in a bohemian like lifestyle making “art” from old city expo signs, recyclable garbage material and household items.

It got me thinking, why don’t they put the popsicle stick New Kolizej here, I don’t think to many people would mind taking this factory away, it’s not an art piece, maybe some communist party people might reminisce about the good old days. It’s a great river front location and would bring interest and people to a part of town that is a bit less frequented. I suppose you could make some unique urban condos too and make it a trendy young people complex with a lot of investment. I thought one would use an old space for a bike museum, guess me having roots in the State of Ohio and the famous bicycle shop making Wright brothers, I think the lesson here is there is only a museum in their shop not because they made bikes, but left the tow wheelers and brought us flight. Rog never got wings; good bikes just are not enough for the competition of Asian manufactures.

Someone trying to add a bit of art to the old building, it does bring out the red brick a bit

Chimes, they are a changin’. Some old kitchen items turned wind chime/art

The view from the riverside, looks like a school or jail with no entry from this side, just a long wall

A view int o one of the buildings, would make a nice urban loft condo to me, sky light and all. And just a few steps from downtown Ljubljana. Any investors want to “pimp my factory” out there?

Front shows all it’s factory face and name all but a memory

Note: I did more research on this and the once company boasts a 75 year old history. They have been bought and sold and in a financial/management mess for a long time, have sold this big factory land to a bank to pay off debts and are attempting a comeback. This company once had 1,400 workers working here and made 75,000 bikes a year now has five in its employ, housed in some other office space. We will see what happens in the future.

Collision Kolizej

Collision Kolizej

Glancing Back Forward

Previously I addressed this subject in my article Save Kolizej. I wrote passionately after one of my first visits to the Kolizej site that reflects one questioning visitors thoughts on this matter, But I’ll address it a little more in depth here once more.

I consider myself very fortunate to have had the opportunity to visit this wonderful city several times over the last several years, but I could not notice the apparent calamity of this building and the state of disrepair it has been allowed to fall into. It looks like a chipped tooth in an otherwise elegant smile of the city. The argument might be true in part that it is “just like so many others” in the time-period sense, I’ll let others more learned in the matters of history and architecture cover that angle in this book in their convincing arguments exactly how this space is of historical importance.

What I have to offer this project is this; I’ve traveled many world cities and cultures on half of our continents. I have developed a deep love for history and mortuary remembrances of times past, particularly in relation in our present lives. I see them as a commentary on contemporary life and recount our experiences in conjunction with our social behaviors and interaction in relation to them. The Kolizej stands out to me not solely for what it represents as a historical monument of the past, nor even it’s epic struggle for survival and adapt it’s functionality to benefit us in our present times, but also a deep-rooted signpost and reminder of historical respect. Sure Ljubljana might not suffer from one less historic building, but if this landmark building is simply allowed to be unilaterally erased what will be immune in future decades and centuries from other city development aspirations?

Ljubljana is not alone in this complex dilemma, yet it has a got a better running chance at setting a guidepost with this project then other cities have had in addressing this quandary due to the relatively small problem ratio to the city. It also helps to have so many other buildings of the historical city center being revived and remodeled in their old likeness. There is also a great pool of great minds and experts that have been making the case extensively on both sides of this issue that brings forth a healthy debate and opportunity for fresh ideas and inevitable lasting solutions at the highest level.

We all have heard the examples in the United States encountered in old cities like Boston and other New England cities that were blowing city block after city block away of neglected aging stone buildings in the 1960s before coming to the realization that contemporary history of this nature was worth something more then mere prime development real-estate, and instead opted to remodel many of the remainder into luxury housing and shops that both benefited the city through housing and tourism landmarks like the now famed houses of Boston’s Back Bay. San Francisco has also successfully renovated old warehouses into tech-savvy corporate office space for internet startups since the 1990’s, or choose simply protect and restore historical landmarks like the 1905 built Geneva Office Building and Powerhouse, that is simply a uniquely designed but terribly antiquated two story train junction center, historically it matters.

http://www.genevaofficebuilding.org/ .

Now, to use some examples a little closer to home. I remember in 1998 staying with friends in Budakeszi, Hungary (a small town situated 10 km to the west of Budapest, on the Pest side of the river Danube), there was this large socialist era factory compound wasteland called GANZ, behind the newly built Mammot 2 mall. It clearly was just a sprawling graveyard to times past and an intriguing yet desperate site that anyone would have excused to level and add modern and more functional housing or office facilities.

On a brief trip there again in 2004 my friends wanted to go for an “outing” with their small kids to a new park, I went along. What I saw as we walked the familiar streets was Millenáris Park, a rejuvenated and wonderful building and park area replacing the industrial cold feelings with that of warmth and sunshine on that summer morning. I never believed it could still be possible while maintaining its original warehouse look that was genuine as the brick walls and iron stairs before me while inside one of the warehouse-turned-pavilions on the park. For they had left everything in tact structurally, just brought it to the public and the new century with some ingenious remodeling, ground level lake and rolling grass lawns.

www.budapesthungaryblog.com/budapest-parks/millenar-park-budapest-millenaris-park.html

Similarly this city of Ljubljana gave new life to a warehouse complex that is now the BTC complex, though it has a much more commonplace feel and no art value to the city except that of a pop culture multiplex cinema.

The two projects are very different in size and scope however it is my hope that like the Millenaris Park, Kolizej can symbolically raise from the ashes like the mythological Phoenix and advert destruction with some foresight, initiative and vision to be a torchbearer for architectural heritage and preservation while still serving a public service. It was originally intended to house protectors of the city and how fitting it would be for it to once again protect and preserve the history of the town by its own continued existence. It should be a beacon landmark of hope and endurance that the city can show off in its entire original splendor to the many visitors of the city right along side its other attractions.

To use a military barracks example truer to the project at hand is the old military base located behind the train station in Croatia’s northern city of Varaždin. It was used for many years to house displaced people during Croatia’s war for independence (1991-1995) and then later those needing temporary asylum from the Kosovo conflict of 1998. It was not until the city bought it from the state and renovated the building and grounds in 2006 that it became a state of the art student dormitory facility. Not only providing the city an opportunity to clean up the cultural and social eyesore that the base had become but a service and a source of revenue base to accommodate students at a prime location in town for boarding, and a source of pride for the city and educational faculties that the city is so renowned for.

I had the opportunity to visit the grounds prier to this transformation while supplying humanitarian aid to the government led agency running operations for those living there in 1999 and again in 2001. I must say it was cave-like in its design and scope. Low entry stairs, narrow dingy halls with shadowy life forms peering out from dank rooms divided by musty blankets that made up the temporary dividers between beds. Cardboard or rags poorly sealed up the widows broken glass as well as the holes and cracks in the plastered walls. A grim sight for a building to be in, and a tragic state of humanity’s forgotten people, though unfortunately not too different then conditions afforded the low-rent tenants of the Kolizej these days and the weather beating the building itself is suffering through neglect.

Gone are all those feelings and so are the foreboding outer walls and barbed wire, renovated and refitted to the times whilst still looking all of its dignified age and original charm behind a bright new coat of paint. Included are swipe card security door access systems providing an up to date security system and a modern looking central entry metal canopy adding a bit of flare. Don’t they say life only begins at retirement?

http://www.scvz.hr/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=225&Itemid=122

Examples would be incomplete without another and perhaps only other living example (surly Kolizej is the largest and most intact of the two) of the rather obscure Austrian innovator and architect that designed Kolizej, that of Graz’s own son, Jozef Benedikt Withalm (some historical writings call him Johann) and the famous city landmark Eisernes Haus (Iron house) that he designed, built (1847-1948) and owned to house a large café house that became known as Café Meran until he sold the building. While the size and use is different, there are visible comparisons and architectural similarities. Eisernes Haus is newly renovated and annexed to a large and modernistic “Kunsthaus”, a space-like art exhibition hall completed in 2003. Eisernes Haus had been drastically renovated and changed over the last century but still resembles outwardly Mr. Withalm’s vision and reinstated is the rooftop terrace that he had originally built, clearly a reminder of history and his contribution to the city while at the same time providing it with a current and functional service relevant to the people and visitors of the city today.

http://www.recovis-restaurierung.de/seiten/referenzen_eisernes_haus_graz.htm

It is my hope that the people of this city and the world will understand and appreciate contemporary history within their city at least as much as a passing visitor and somehow come to a consensus with this location in relation to proposed projects, and that Kolizej – in the form we know it now – will live on, at least though this century renovated and cherished as a sample of valor and overcoming adversity, as the Slovenian people have shown throughout their history. They may have been downtrodden by others, abandoned and obscured, but were never out, and neither should be the buildings of historical importance on Slovenian soil.

Birds taking the opportunity to rest on the open windows

Red light, green light, which way will it go?

Up to Učka

Today I let me freinds persuade me to go for a walk with them, they said “you can take pictures”, so I went. What they did not tell me was that they were planing to walk a good part of the way (one hour each way) up to the top of Ucka called Voljak.

I’d seen it in pictures and always wanted to go see the stone fort-like tower on the top but did not realize my day had come. It was a great climb, mixed of small paths and trails in the wonderful spring time that was great dispite being a little tired. I got up their first and had plenty of time to soak up the breathtaking views from all angles. From the Istra plans on one side and the sea and islands on the other, it is really one of the wonders to see here.

The restaurant marks the place to start walking, there are also possibilities for mountain biking, and a road for cars most of the way up

Along the forest walk

two-wheelers making their way up

View of the plans below on the western side

A view of the gorge below that makes up Vela Draga, a popular place for free-climbers and nature lovers. It is also where the highway tunnel comes out into Istra

The tower and military facility in the background

A sea view east with Rijeka and the island of Krk in the distance

doing what I do, it was a great day and long walk, but well worth the time.

Adriatic Moments e-book

Well, I am still here and I am releasing a little free e-book of some of the pictures I’ve taken on the Slovenia and Croatia coast, this blog is hard to post big pictures so this is one way you get to see more. Feel free to download but do not print it out as the quality is not good enough.

The Little Camera That Could

Yes, my camera finally came to the end of its little shutter-life. At about four years and nearly then 10,200 pictures it has lived a full and well deserved footnote in my blog that has been responsible for all of the pictures and video posted on this site to date. The good news is that now that I do not have a camera I will have time to go back over the old pictures and post backlogs of the last few years, the video function still works too so there might be more video content then pictures for the next little while till I can come up with some better gear and there is a renewed call for sponsorship for those that are able.

Fair Trade

Today I visited the Zagreb construction fair; I went to this same fair last year as well so I was curious to compare the two as well as progress in general.

If there was one word to describe this fair this year it would be “quite” and I think there was two factors that contributed to it. First that it is scheduled all week (Tuesday- Saturday) instead of Fri-Sunday that it was last year and that it coincides with the week after Easter and the Croatia Boat fair in Split. While I do not think it will affect the presenters that much as they are running their staff anyways and prospective buyers and dealmakers are going to go there anyways but the little guys who rely on the general public will really feel the pinch, it might pick up on the weekend but it is really boring to see just suits running around making big deals and everyone else just twiddling their thumbs for a week. Commercialism is here to stay but so does the divide of haves and have not-so-much even in this micro cosmos of building materials and trade.

One other noticeable difference was that the amount of money companies are starting to spend, the laptop displays are replaced with large plasma TVs and advertisers that were passing out flyers on roller-blades last year are now equipped with Segways. This may still be Eastern Europe and forever will be geographically but with all the building boom that is taking place this is starting to look like a gold rush from local, regional and international companies all trying to get a bite of this pie that it is kind of reminding me of the southeast Asian boom years of the 1990’s when I was over in Thailand, though it is here on a somewhat smaller scale given this market size and population is incredibly smaller.

The growing number of construction cranes in the Zagreb skyline and new houses being built are a good idea of the growing demand for building materials. I used to be mocked when I first came here 8 years ago and would tell people here that the best was just to come and Croatian was a “buy stock” so to speak, now it is very obvious by the amount of SUVs in the parking and international presence at fairs like this one that Croatia is an important market and the growing amount of “haves” want the best and are willing to pay top dollar for it.

Money can’t buy you happiness, it’s true, but it can buy you a new home and as a new country I feel that there are still people who are looking for that, sire there are those who just want a bigger and better one for no reason but there are still enough people without the basics that I feel this fair serves a good purpose in that it drives competition and prices down so that the hard working man can get a “better bang for his buck” or should I say “kuča for his kuna”. The amount of window companies and roofing tiles are just one example, from the traditional clay tiles to recycled plastic to stamped out coated sheet tin, in every shape and color imaginable you almost think we are talking about luxury goods but it is just roofing that every house needs, there are so many types and prices and dealers that you really need take your time but in the end this provides a fabulous place to find killer deals for every imaginable housing need without having to call and visit all the dealers individually and I do not see why there are not more private people here looking, I guess they are all at work being a weekday, and that is the unfortunate truth. Only the rich survive, and get good deals.

Asphalting the Ancestors on the 8th Rijeka Auto slalom

Today I found out that there was an auto slalom event happening in Prilok, a small area on the outskirts of Rijeka. I finally decided to go down there and see what is was like, I heard there were a bunch of old cars racing so that was all I needed to walk down the hill and experience the event with a friend.

The key to this race being small and fast most of the cars were modified miniature cars from the 80’s among them the local Zastava 750, the VW Golf I, Ford Fiesta, Honda CR-X and the newer Ford Focus and others as you’ll see by the pictures and video clip. They closed this portion of the road off that is normally very busy despite its narrow and dated planning it serves to link Rijeka’s north side to Opatija via the seafront area called Prilok.

From what I saw most of the cars came from or belonged to car repair shops and garages or car enthusiasts that follow this circuit, they are street cars but must not registered and all striped out inside except for a bucket seat and roll bar, and a helmeted diver though I really think most of it is just for show or safety and that they really would not roll over or be in a high speed collision at least on this type of race. Engine-wise they are little modified and just in good running order and not drag cars or hotrods with NOS, just good clean fun driving.

We were just in time for one of the heats and I took different video clips from different vantage points along the track. This was a slalom race meaning that like in skiing slalom they leave the gate one at a time and race the clock with judges at the different slalom points to mark if they knocked down cones etc. The race we saw was eventful in itself including one stalling and nearly hitting me when I was doing the curb angle low shots and another having to be towed back having died somewhere down the track causing the car behind him to have to re-drive his lap again and the retired diver getting cheers and applause from the audience while being towed back, wish I’d had filmed that too. Here are some pictures and my video clip.

The starting line from above the hill that started the seaside windy drive, in summer it is a popular campground.

The starting gate from the ground with the hills and old stone house in the background.

Here is the video with just a little bit of editing.

Coasting along

Well the morning came way too soon for me today as I had agreed to accompany a friend on a trip to Crkvinica, a small town about an hour drive south of Rijeka.

After stumbling out of bed at 5:30am and a good cup of coffee we were off taking the state roads that wind around the coastline like a ribbon. I’m no stranger to this as I traveled most of this coastline from Dubrovnik to Senj and all the windy roads around in between (before the pay toll express road was built) but that has been a few years with only a couple visits to the coastal towns of Zadar and Šibenik during summer visits since.

This was nice “uncharted territory” for me and though a short trip it was a nice little experience and one of the first times to “live blog” the Adriatic coast with these pictures since this blog kicked off last August.

The reason or trip started so early was that we had to be in Crkvinica by 7:00 am to acquire fresh fish when the fishing boats came in to harbor in the morning. I’m not a fish fan but I do appreciate it as part of the Adriatic experience and loving the sea so much I have acquired an appreciation for it’s creatures too and barbequed fish on a open grill on the seaside is not really a bad way to spend an afternoon.

This particular part of the coastline is full of coves, peninsulas, strands and bays all woven together into a fabulous and enchanting interknit treasure of natural beauty but unfortunately not spared the scars of modern development and pollution as the industrial revolution and development during the socialist period placed industry and factories near and around populated and natural resources often imperiling the heath of both man and nature at the same time. One such example is the oil refineries in the heart of the city of Rijeka and other oil depots and smelters near the town of Bakar that we passed by today. This particular smokestack can be see from across the bay of kavarner on a clear day even from Opatija, nearly the 30 kn away and a disturbing backdrop for the old and historic boat building town of Krajevica.

All in all it was a great trip and I hope to be able to visit and explore more of it during my stay in Rijeka.

Some more pictures from the day

Poison in Paradise- notice the gray sky coming from the smokestack and refineries in contrast to the picturesque blue sky and beautiful harbor and castle.

The devil loves candy strips, though it looks like a candy cane it’s not so sweet but just as deadly.

The Dry docks of Kraljevica, since 1729, and said to have been Tito’s first job.

The town of Bakar,with the white line in the hill being the main road we were on and only the guardrail in the foreground from taking an unwanted “drop down” to the town.

The “O” in Opatija

Opatija, truly a gem in the jewel-studded Adriatic coast. With the city of Rijeka being the main port of Croatia (and previously a main port and shipping artery in the former Yugoslavia once Triest was handed over to the Italians after WWII) Opatija became the place where the rich and industrialists went for peace and quite, just 12 kilometers from Rijeka it has long provied this service among locals and tourists alike as a nice get-away town for weekends or just a walk by the sea and coffee at a seaside café. In some ways it reminded me of what Trogir is to the other main port town of Croatia, Split, thought they are very different apart from that they both serve their larger cities needs for peace and fine dining in their unique way and historical treasures and architecture.

A friend and I decided we could no longer just look out at the sea but we wanted to see and feel it and walked along the coast just to smell the sea air and hear the waves crashing would have been enough to make our 5 km walk worth it but we also found quant harbors and old villas and alleys starting in Volosko and on into Opatija along the seaside that really made it a wonderful Sunday afternoon walk just wonderful. We did not make it to the heart of town, though I’ve been there before and will defiantly visit there again this was just a nice seaside walk and yes, (as I’d have it) exploring old abandoned villas like ‘Villa Irena’ that tragically looks like it burned down quite some decades ago (no signs that I could tell that it was ever electrically wired as a modern home) and all three wooden floors collapsed inside of itself. Surly it must still be worth millions with the grounds and location and the owners or city are presumably just waiting for a good offer for it and it will be restored to its former glory or better and serving as a hotel or private estate like it once was complete with seaside access and roman yard sculptures.

This part of the coast is doted with hotels and these villas dating and named after the various ones who happened to be occupying it at the time built, you see names suggesting Italian, Germanic (Austro-Hungarian) and even Russian (though they never occupied), we even found an Albert Einstein street, and much of the architecture follows a similar pattern thought it also includes the much less glorious socialist era and strictly convenience styles that are just ugly boxes and built with poor materials but thankfully this town was spared the worst of it and is balanced out with many, many artistically created structures of the early 1900’s like much of this area.

I’ll end this with pictures from today of this beautiful place.

The main road through town.

Villa Irena

Another seaside villa

A castle of a place, currently a hotel.

Shoring up success, a new villa to be.

Jogging memories

This morning I woke up before 7:00 and went for a jog with another volunteer friend around the small allays and hill roads around where we stay near Rijeka. It adds a new level of difficulty ascending hills but it is good exercise and works different muscles then I’m used to when I used to regularly run flat areas of Čakovec but just part of the experience of this part of the country. There really is something special about seeing the sun rise and to have the sun and the sea and wide open sky is really just magical and I almost feel bad that I’ve missed this beauty the whole month I’ve been here so far, I’m sure it will not be the last and that I’ll make this jogging thing happen every few days or so and maybe take my camera once to show here, I really feel lucky to be here.

After a shower I went up to the kitchen and our Croatian friend made boiled eggs and sausage (a typical breakfast here). It reminded me of the year I spent much of my time visiting the Croatian islands and staying in small private guest houses (Pentions) or government hotels that would serve that in the morning too though usually with a spot of mustered as well. I have a lot of memories, and I hope many more to come, I wish everyone could be here and experience some of these simple pleasures of life in Croatia too.

Things of earth – Terra

Today I went for the second time to a club run by a local NGO for drug users and those who are current users and those rehabilitated to come and talk and relax and or see the on hand psychiatrist to help them with the many struggles associated with addiction and staying clean. I’ve just gone there mainly to listen and here their stories and talk to the staff who are very dedicated to helping these ones without being critical and condemning as I realize as much as you might just want to say “you stupid, don’t do that” once they are into heroin or other hard drugs it really does not help as it has to be their own decision and determination to quite and want to do more with their lives. It is agonizing to see, but they are all adults and have made those choices for themselves and have to want to change in their mind first, and when they do they are here to help.

I really do not know much about this at this time but am quite interested in this program as drugs is one of the biggest social problems in Croatia and particularly in coastal towns like Rijeka and Split. Some of my friends and I volunteer there every two weeks now and just converse with them to give them understanding and learn about them, some come from broken homes and bad childhoods, are single parents etc. no one I’ve seen yet was a current user smacked-out at the time but I hear at night or weekends (as it is a 24 hour center) it gets hard users on hard drugs that can be real intense even for the trained staff but that is life and the awful truth even in this paradise.

I’d like to help more and maybe accompany the staff one night or go on a needle exchange field operation to have more first-hand understanding of this program to better relate to those that come from this and what they are up against here in this city.

Cliff hanger – free-climbing Vela Draga

I just got back from having my life flash before my eyes – twice in one day!

It all began like many an ordinary weekend day off and my mind started planning to finish some carpentry project I’d started the other day or maybe a walk along the seaside or old villages on the outskirts of Rijeka, that would have been an ordinary day – today was not going to be one of those days.

Someone walked into my room and said “do you want to go free climbing?” I hummed and hawed but really could not find a good excuse fast enough so I was drafted as the fourth man and we were off.

I’d heard of their hobby of free climbing and seen pictures, it seemed to make sense or at least they seemed to tell it that way as they do it often and for years now, that is where I start to differ, at least for now.

We got to the Vela Draga area part of the Učka Mountain and pretected park area. It was just fantastically beautiful, I’ve never been to the Grand Canyon but this must be a smaller Croatian version as these cliffs just look like some great water rush left the and agape in a unique way kind of like the tide does on a beach when the tide is out.

There is something about being 10 meters up and hanging on with your fingertips and toes that send reason rushing to your brain and you ask yourself “why am I doing this?” why did I not think of that when I was still on the ground and not hugging a rock for dear life?

Well it was an experience, I do not mind the height that much (I did not go that high up) but there is something unnatural about it, it is not our element, kind of like swimming yet we as humans seem to have a need to try to conquer it none the less.

I understand and actually loved the technique part of it like harnesses, knots, clips, being safety and being lowered down etc, and I see the practical uses for them in survival or rescue or just mountain hiking but as a sport I really do not see the thrill or purpose in hugging various parts of a mountain for 10-15 minute climbs just to come right back down again and go up another. To me that seems like those who high-dive just to get out of the pool and dive back in over and over, I just don’t see the point. I like some risk but not just for the sake of it, perhaps it will grow on me if I do it more but I’d rather water ski, hike, mountain bike or a variety of other sports then this again, there just does not seem to have a proper build up, delivery or pay off. I think I mainly did it because I respect the opinions of those I was climbing with but that is really not a good enough reason to me, I do not believe in being a follower just to win approval or be in, and never have, and I know they understand.

Overall I’d rate this experience a 10 just for the nature aspect and the learning experience, but if you were not born a gecko, don’t feel bad, just experience this wonderful place anyways if you have the chance.

We meet many others that day also climbing including from Slovenia; I thought they had plenty of mountains but I guess not like these or that they still were worth the trip. One instructor with another group of first-timers said he goes to Yosemite Park and climes 350 meter climbs in two days, how can you ever be worked up about finding a parking space or the things we worry about here in this world after something like that and worrying about hanging off mountains from your toes for two days and perching your tent off harnesses on the cliff etc. I’ve seen it before in magazines and I think I’ll stick to that version of things for now.

The location was just phenomenal though, I’d love to shoot a music video out there as it is just total wilderness, there is a highway and rail line but these big cliffs and rocks jutting out of the ground give it a real awe-inspiring feel that would be nice to capture on video.

If one by the sea

Sorry for not blogging much but I’ve just moved to a new place near Rijeka (Croatia) and do not get much time online for now. Things are good, I have a place overlooking the Adriatic sea so I can’t complain, the weather though has reminded me of Ljubljana with lots of fog and drizzly rain but it will get better and when it does I’ll be out exploring and adding pictures to this blog.